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Puppy Training

(scroll down for Crate Training Manual)

A few tips from us...making the first days, first weeks an easy transition…

    Your puppy has been bred for superior intelligence and a loyal, cooperative disposition.  The combination of good genetics, loving care, and proper correction and training results in a dog that is capable of going far beyond the ‘family pet.”

        I hope that you will enjoy your new puppy, and that he/she will soon feel a part of your family.  Have patience, as it may take him several days to adjust to his new surroundings.  We would like to offer a few suggestions that we feel will hasten this adjustment:

        Your puppy is now eating solid food.  There is no need to grind food, or to add milk , water, or soft dog food.  Your dog’s breath, and dental health will be good throughout its life if you do not feed soft dog food.  Up until now your pup has had food available at all times, but now that you are house training, you will want to go to a 2/3 times a day feeding regimen so that potty times are predictable (within 5-10 minutes from feeding time...your pup will have his very own exact schedule)  If you work during the day, feed once in a.m., allowing puppy to potty before you leave, and once when arriving home for the same reason.  If you are home all day, you may feed 3 times daily.   Directions on the dog food bag you will take home with you will instruct you to feed 2-3 cups of food daily (divided over 2-3 feedings). 

     Sometimes, a  bout with “the runs” will occur after taking puppy home.  This can be due to stress of new surroundings, new food, and new water.  If puppy continues to eat and drink normally, don’t worry, your problem should solve itself in a few days.  Feed white rice till the diarrhea stops, along with bottled water. (Bring a gallon jug for us to fill with our water to take with you)  Feed yogurt each day for 4 weeks.   If the diarrhea continues for more than two days, or puppy is not drinking or eating and is lethargic, then poisoning, giardia, or Coccidia (a bacteria picked up by pups) could be the cause...take the pup to your vet!  Puppies stool may be soft, but it is when it is WATERY that there is concern.  Sometimes stress of traveling can trigger a bout with diarrhea for a couple days.   Be sure pup gets plenty of rest, too, to combat stress.   Take a stool sample to your vet within the first week of pup being home, although your pup has been wormed at least 2 times, pups can re-infest themselves (they are not exactly careful about where they step!) , so you may need more wormer to decrease the symptoms.

    Remember, a fat dog is not a healthy dog, a lighter dog is also easier on the frame of the dog.  Allow your vet to evaluate your dogs weight once a year.  Do not feed your dog cooked bones, as they can splinter and get lodged in the colon.  Limit puppy’s water intake during house training.  But do not let puppy dehydrate.

      Your puppy will naturally need to chew while loosing baby teeth, but supply a Nylabone “pooch pacifier” that puppy can chew on and not “chew APART”. (order these bones plus your other puppy supplies from  NuVet (use the toll-free number 1-800-474-7044)  This company can supply just about anything you need for puppy, and you’ll get it at least 20% off of retail!!! Your order code number is 31825. (see enclosures of recommended list of supplies)

      Rawhides only teach dogs to chew things apart.  This will help protect your favorite pair of shoes!  If your puppy “play bites”, this is normal, as this is how a litter of puppies play with each other.  It sounds weird, but to avoid lots of “hitting” on the nose or yelling, when your pup bites down on you or your child’s finger, take a finger with no nail, and stick it far down his throat,  it is humane, yet uncomfortable enough  that puppy will think twice next time! Or, pinch the puppy’s lip.   Make sure the whole family is consistent with all training methods, otherwise puppy will learn to respect only the one who carries through with discipline!

       I could write a book on housebreaking alone...but a few suggestions that we might make are:   Take puppy out first thing in morning, after each meal, after nap time, after playing, and last thing before bedtime.  Praise him highly when he goes outside, and scold him with a firm “no” when he has an accident in the house.  When he eliminates outside, mark the spot, and each time, take him to that same spot, he will soon learn to eliminate whenever taken out and he smells the familiar smell ( you can also train them to go in the same area of your yard this way!)  After he has gone outside, let him have the freedom of the house, or a confined area such as a kitchen.  A box, dog crate, or kennel will come in handy when you are away or too busy to watch puppy.  The puppy will usually be clean and will not want to dirty his box if the box is small enough that he cannot eliminate in one end and sleep in the other.  (SEE  our insert on Crate Training contained in your puppy care kit)  If you can concentrate on the house-training the first two weeks you will not encounter many problems thereafter.

    Do not play rough with your puppy!  Don’t let the puppy develop bad habits such as jumping up on you, biting at clothing, etc.  You must remember that your dog will weigh from 65-95 pounds at maturity.  Some of the bad habits that he develops as a small puppy will certainly not be desirable when he grows older.  Don’t let him get by with anything as a puppy that you won’t want him to do when he is older and  much larger!

      Although your puppy has been wormed, we suggest you take a sample of his stool to your vet on your first vet visit.  Your puppy has had at least its first vaccine as well.  The enclosed health record will inform you when to have the puppy’s next shot.  Also, rabies should be given at 6 mos old.

    Runny stool can be common the first couple days, due to change of surroundings, but be sure to call your vet if this persists.  If  puppy is eating fine, drinking plenty of water, and acting alert and playful, there should be no reason for alarm.

      The first night is often the most difficult, you may place a hot water bottle filled with warm water, wrapped in a towel, in puppy’s crate to simulate another pup.  Also, if you have played with puppy a lot and held him the first day, take off the shirt you have worn and place in puppy’s crate.  Familiar smells always comfort a canine.  A ticking alarm clock (heart rhythm), or a clock radio (voice) by crate can also be soothing.  Otherwise, hang in there, it won’t be long before your pup will be sleeping through the night on its own.  If all else fails...turn on a loud fan in YOUR room to drown out the puppy cries so YOU can get some sleep (ha, ha, ha)

    Of course, your pup will have been wormed and have received its first vaccine when you pick him up.  The next vaccine will be due a month from the date of pick up.  We recommend that you take your pup to your vet within the first week after receiving him just for a “well puppy check-up” (for your peace of mind, and for your own protection), and to make an appointment for his next vaccine.  Also take a stool sample to your vet during this first visit to double-check that puppy is all clear of parasites.  Even though we worm the pup, sometimes puppies can re-infest themselves (they are not picky about where they step and what they eat sometimes!) so we have you double-check once puppy arrives at your home and is separated from the rest of the litter.

Common questions asked by people before they pick up their puppy:

·          Leash/Collar?  Ask any pet store for an “adjustable collar for a German Shepherd  puppy”, any leash. (pup will be between 10-12 lbs at 7 wks of age) We recommend a GREAT place to get your puppy supplies (crates, bones, toys, bowls, leashes,  etc...) at 20% OFF.   Our new puppy owners have been very pleased.   This is the best-priced dog supply outlet we know! Request a catalog when you call....

·          Crate?  Have a large or small puppy crate for the ride home as well as for house-training as we recommend “crate training” and include a manual in the puppy packet you will get upon pick up date.

·          We appreciate cash on the balance due on your pup, or money order/cashier’s check.

·          Bowls of Stainless Steel are best. You may want a Puppy/Baby gate.

·          Supplement? Due to variation/quality of foods, and that there is not a vaccine available for EVERY canine illness, we require that your puppy be on a supplement recommended by us, which is only available through breeders like  Shadowbrook Shepherds.  Your dog must be on this supplement for your health guarantee to be honored by us. This supplement is important for bone and joint development. You will want to have this supplement on hand before you arrive to pick up your puppy so there is no break in the puppy’s feeding/supplement routine. 

books we recommend:

****The Art of Raising a Puppy, by the Monks of New Skete

 

  Crate Training Manual

“the best way to house-break”

By Liz Palika

             Adding a puppy to the household can be a wonderful experience, but the relationship can sour before it even begins if the puppy is ruining carpets and chewing up furniture.  There is, however, a training  tool that  will enable you to train your new companion and avoid disaster—–a crate!

            Two types of crates are available.  The first type is often made of heavy molded plastic or fiberglass and is used by airlines to transport animals.  Plastic  crates usually come in two parts, top and bottom, and are easy to disassemble and clean.  Wire crates, which provide better ventilation, are also available , but they do not provide the privacy and seclusion puppies need when they retreat to their crates for naps.  However, a cover placed over a wire crate works if  privacy is needed over circulation. Do not keep a pup’s collar on when placing him in a wire crate, it can catch on the wires when they jump around  and there is a danger of strangulation.

            Its important that you , the new owner, understand that the crate is not a cage or jail.  A crate is your puppy’s own place—it provides them their natural “den” or bed, a place to hide special toys or bones and a refuge from times of stress.

            Puppies like to sleep in small, close places.  That’s why they curl up under the bed or under a chair, or crawl under the back porch.  A crate allows you to use this instinct as a training tool.  Begin by choosing a crate size to suit your dog.  A large crate to fit your full-size dog is fine if you don’t want a small crate and then another later, but section it off  (with boxes or something) to a space that fits your pup enough for it to stand up, stretch, turn around, and lie down comfortable.  The idea is you don’t want the pup to sleep in one end and have room to relieve itself in the other...the purpose behind using this crate is to house-train the pup utilizing his instinct to keep his bed clean.  He may have one or two accidents, but that will be all!

            Introducing the Crate

Introduce your pup to the crate by tossing a treat inside while the pup is watching.  Say, “(Name), crate!”  and urge the puppy inside.  Let the pup grab the treat and come back out.  Repeat the action a couple of times; later place the puppy’s dinner inside the crate.  Let the puppy eat with the door open, coming and going as it pleases.

            When the pup is comfortable going in and out, toss a treat inside the crate, close the door after the pup goes inside.  Wait a couple minutes, then open the door.  Gradually increase time until the puppy is comfortable with the door being closed.

            If your pup throws a temper tantrum when you close the door, do not let the pup out until it is quiet.  If you let the pup out  when it screams, it will have learned temper tantrums work.  Instead, tell the pup, “NO!  Quiet!”  in a sharp tone of voice.  

            Put the crate in your bedroom at night so the pup can feel your presence and be reassured that you are near.  It is eight hours that the pup can be near you even though you are sleeping.  If the pup is restless, you will be able to hear it and take it outside.  If the pup decides it wants to play, just reach over, tap the crate and say, “No!  Quiet!”

            During the day, place the crate near people, in the family room or kitchen.  Let your pup see and hear the normal sights and sounds of the household.

            When house training a pup, set up a schedule for the pup’s meals, playtime, crate time, trips outside, and follow it closely.  The pup should be taken out to eliminate after waking, after eating, and after playing and about every 3 hours in between.

            If you are a working dog owner, don’t plan on leaving the pup alone in its crate from 9-6 p.m..  That is entirely too long for the pup to be crated.  Confine the pup with its crate to an easy-to-clean area (kitchen/bathroom/laundry room) or hire a neighbor to come play with the pup and take it outside.

            If you are at home while housebreaking, feed pup 3 times a day knowing that potty time will be predictable right after, or within 5 minutes of eating/drinking.   If you work, feed pup in the morning, allowing potty time before you leave, and when you return from work.

            Preventing Problems 

            Puppies don’t intentionally get into trouble:  its just that our belongings are so alluring, at least in a pups eyes.  After all, a couch cushion that has been slightly chewed is a lot of fun when its shaken and the stuffing flies out!  Leather shoes and rawhide chews are very similar to many pups!

            Many of the destructive things pups do can be prevented by using a crate...they cannot destroy $100 shoes if crated when not supervised.  By preventing these problems, you will establish good habits.  The pup learns to chew on toys you give it, to sleep and be quiet, rather than learn to be destructive.

          Security

            A crate provides the pup/dog with security away from home.  If needed to be boarded, send it with its crate.   Use at hotels or when flying.   Also, teaching the pup to ride in the crate in the car may save its life  from being thrown from a car someday.  It also stops interference with the driver.

As an Adult

As your dog matures, it can be given more freedom, but if it does make a mistake, crate it again.  The dog must prove reliability by not chewing and having accidents.  Too much freedom too soon will result in problems.

            Your dog will still use its crate on its own if it has been used properly, as it provides its special place to sleep or to retreat when needed.  Your dog will go there when low or sick.  It will hide bones there to keep them away from the new baby or puppy in its new crate.

 

*****first thing in morning, pick up pup, take outside to a predetermined place, mark it, take pup back there always to trigger the idea of where to eliminate..  If you hurry, he will be more apt to do his job in a rush.  Bring him inside to a small area where you will be.  Around noon, let him out to run, after eliminating, bring into house for an hour or two of “confined freedom” with you.  Take out again for quickie before putting back in crate.  Just before dinner, take dog out to run, bring in for more “confined freedom”.  Feed dinner, not later than 6:00 p.m., take outside again after dinner.  Bring in for “controlled freedom” with you, taking outside again about 8 p.m., then again before retiring.

 

After about 2 weeks of this sort of routine, the pattern should be set, and you can allow more freedom as puppy becomes more trust worthy...and his bladder grows! (allowing for more freedom)

 

Shadowbrook Shepherds
Pat Hickok
2216 Sylvania Road
Troy, Pennsylvania 16947

Tel: (570) 297-5136
Email: phickok@epix.net

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